Can Japan Driers for Paint Be Use for Fine Art
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I picked up a bottle of Nihon dryer awhile ago and have but used it on a dwelling house dec project….it did make the paint dry fast. But I'thousand wondering nearly its use in oil painting. I seldom hear it mentioned, and then but in passing. But recently someone hither has said they utilize it. What is it made of? How does it affect the oils? How much would I utilize? And when in the painting process? Anyone who tin can reply these questions?
Linda
Give thanks y'all;
LindaSeeing the world through new eyes.
What is it made of? How does it impact the oils? How much would I apply? And when in the painting process? Anyone who can answer these questions?
Japan Drier that I've seen being sold under the Grumbacher and W&N brands is a dilute version (and more expensive) of cobalt lineate (cobalt drier). I accept long used the cobalt drier when oil painting. The rule to follow is to utilize as little as possible to achieve the desired result in drying time. Past that I mean a drop or two added to any the oil medium is in your palette cup. Or if you are like me, y'all'll add together a "unmarried driblet" to any base white you tend to clasp out on your palette for use in tinting other colors.
Other oil painters prefer to employ alkyds to speed drying time and human action every bit glazing mediums…such as West&N Liquin.
I have used Japan Dryer and am not so impressed with the drying times. I apply minor amounts with the pigments. I do notice it will not dry the paint overnight, merely it does seem to accelerate the overall drying times. I probally will try something else next time.
if you don't mind my .02
personally, I meet artists that employ it, and think their works accept a "stripped-out" feel about them in the "tone" of the oil pigment. Everytime I meet these Japan Dryer paintings, I e'er think they're watered-down acrylics, and I'thou surprised, corrected in seeing the word "oil" in the title.
non a dis.. but a personal opinion — avert the stuff unless that'southward the look you're going for.
Richard
I've used Japan drier and Cobalt drier. If you lot use too much it can dry quite fast, but the pigment becomes very dry and dull. I apply Liquin now. I believe you lot tin utilize information technology quite liberally…at least I do without any problems. It will dry within hours or overnight depending on the corporeality used.
Thank you for the quick reply, jaxas. I'm besides curious about how much the drying time is speeded upwardly. Are nosotros talking minutes, hours, days? And what is the corporeality to use…..a few drops, into what amount of pigment or medium.
Thanks, Linda
Okay. Hither'southward how I do information technology, but you have to adjust it to suit your own way of painting. Recall I advised to employ drop past drop additions until you learn what happens with the brand of paints yous are using equally far as how long it takes for the paint to "set" (I dislike the utilise of "drying time" when speaking of oil paints). My goal is to be able to continue painting on the side by side mean solar day without the fright of previously practical paint layers being so loose that the paint doesn't stay put when I overpaint.
When working en plein air, I apply Liquin (or equivalent alkyd medium) because I can begin a painting in the morn and overpaint it past the afternoon session. I personally dislike the "experience" of Liquin, so I avert it in the studio in preference to using my usual linseed oil/mineral spirits + cobalt drier medium. If I am going to glaze, where Liquin would be used in the field, I switch to a linseed oil/mineral spirit/damar varnish + cobalt drier mixture.
If I'm looking for a 'colbalt dryer' medium, what are the names different articles use.Linda
Try searching on "Cobalt Drier." The make I use is from Grumbacher. I know of no other name for it, other than "cobalt lineate" which is the technical name. Nippon Drier, every bit has already been discussed, is nothing more than than diluted cobalt drier.
Technical Note: Cobalt acts every bit a "catalyst" when mixed with drying oils such as linseed oil. The calalyst acts as an accelerator of the polymerization process that drying oils such every bit linseed oil undergo when left exposed to oxygen in the air. So technically cobalt is an "accelerator" rather than a "drier."
Speaking of accelerators, what nearly the manifestly, one-time fashioned apply of a fan to speed drying times?
That'south great if yous're referring to water-based paints where the pigment sets upwards as the h2o evaporates.
That's not what happens with oil paints. A fan will speed the evaporation of the volatiles you used in the paint awarding, (and hasten the exhausting of fumes) but information technology will do nothing to speed the setting time of the paint itself, since, as I said, it relies on chemical reaction of the drying oil with air – and moving the air faster will not speed that setting process. What volition help the paint set upwards faster is Oestrus – like setting the painting out in the sunday on a calm mean solar day. But I would not advise a oestrus lamp, hair dryer or etc. The technical nitty gritty is that estrus accelerates chemic reactions, as anyone who has ever worked with two-part epoxy glues has learned.
The biggest problem when discussing oil paints is misuse of the word "drying" when speaking of what happens with oils.
As Jaxas has already said, oils "set up" by oxidative polymerisation – they don't dry by evaporation. If your medium is turpsy, then increasing airflow will crusade that to evaporate more rapidly so the paint layer will become less sloshy – but it'due south not going to increase the oxidation rate!
Edit – simultaneous post with Jaxas! Think of information technology as getting the aforementioned communication in stereo!
Dave
Later on experimenting for a calendar week or so, I call back I meet the problem. My first attempt of adding Nippon Dryer to a 50-50 linseed oil-turp was fine. Simply a small amount, peradventure 1/8th. Took several days to dry and looked fine.
I still suggest you purchase Cobalt Drier and add information technology i drib at a time until you go some experience with it. It's much easier to control than working with the more dilute Japan Drier.
I also recommend the use of mineral spirit with your linseed oil in place of turpentine. Information technology'due south less likely to give you allergic reactions if you lot go on to use turps frequently. While you may have no reaction to turps now, that can change with time.
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